The Right Size Nut

The Alesis Nitro rack system uses standard metric hardware. Through some testing and measuring, I confirmed that the correct replacement size is:

• M5 – 0.8 mm hex nuts (metric, stainless steel)

These are widely available at home improvement stores like Home Depot under the Everbilt brand. They typically come in small packs (2 per bag), and since they’re stainless steel, they’ll hold up well against repeated tightening and loosening during kit adjustments.

👉 You can find them online here: Home Depot – 5 mm-0.8 Stainless Steel Metric Hex Nut (2-Pack)

Where They’re Needed

On the Nitro kit, these nuts are used in places such as:

• Rack clamps – securing the L-shaped arms or extension rods.
• Pad mounts – keeping drum or cymbal pads from rotating or loosening.
• Hardware joints – ensuring the stand stays stable under regular playing.

If you’ve got a pile of disassembled parts like in my music room (see below), you know how easy it is to misplace one small nut when rearranging your setup.

A Quick Fix That Keeps You Playing

Rather than waiting on a specialty order or worrying about exact proprietary replacements, picking up a handful of M5-0.8 stainless steel nuts is an inexpensive and effective solution. They drop right into place, and within minutes you can have your kit reassembled, tightened, and ready for action.

In my case, a quick $1.18 purchase saved me from unnecessary downtime in the studio. Now the Nitro kit sits alongside my keyboards and recording gear, rock solid and ready to go.

Final Tip

If you’re planning to tweak your kit often or move it around, grab a few extra nuts and keep them in your stick bag or gear drawer. It’s a small detail that can make a big difference the next time you’re setting up for practice or a recording session.

The post Replacing Nuts on the Alesis Nitro Drum Kit: A Simple Fix with Common Hardware appeared first on Jakob Ward.

The Problem

Over time, the program and value knobs on my GP-100 became unreliable. They would jump values, skip numbers, or sometimes not respond at all. These knobs are rotary encoders, and after decades of use they simply wear out. For an otherwise solid unit, this was the weak link.

Opening It Up

The fix started with taking the GP-100 out of the rack and carefully opening it up. Once the cover and faceplate were removed, the internals were revealed—classic Roland design with a tidy PCB, transformer, and ribbon cables. It’s always a little intimidating seeing vintage gear opened up on the workbench, but also a reminder of how well-built these units are.

Soldering in New Encoders ( EC11B15242AE )

The faulty encoders were desoldered from the board. This required some patience and care to avoid lifting any traces. Once the old components were out, I soldered in brand new replacements ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/404343328520 ). It was a straightforward job, but one where a strong and steady hand made all the difference.

With the new encoders installed, the front panel could go back together. Seeing the gold faceplate cleaned and reattached felt like a small victory.

Back in the Rack

After reassembly, it was time to test. The moment of truth: powering it up, scrolling through programs, and tweaking values. Smooth, precise response—good as new. The GP-100 was ready to reclaim its spot in my rack, right under the Korg MS2000R and next to the other gear that makes up my setup. ( Ok, I actually put the encoder board in backwards the first time and had to disassemble the entire unit again – high speed mode, no problems… )

Why It Matters

There’s satisfaction in repairing gear yourself, especially something as versatile and characterful as the GP-100. Instead of letting it collect dust or replacing it with something newer, I now have a restored piece of history back in service. It’s a reminder that with a little soldering, some patience, and the right parts, old gear can keep inspiring new sounds.

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